The surprising word Ratabesi used to describe it all was “humble.” She’s spent the Nirvana 33th anniversary 1987 2020 signatures shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this past year meditating on fashion’s purpose, its future, and most importantly, what her customer actually needs right now. The answer was radically simple: less. Less clothing, less fashion, less pressure. The idea of creating a giant collection just for the sake of it—likely with clothes TRÉ’s customer wouldn’t be able to wear—didn’t feel right. Instead, Ratabesi slowed down and refocused on what is “essential,” not in the manner of T-shirts and jeans, but pieces you can wear and treasure. If that sounds like a recipe for minimalism, look no further than the denim chaps and intricately cutout bodysuits. The fall 2021 collection is built on clothes that can do more and work harder: The chaps were styled solo (for the truly daring!) or layered on top of other jeans, while the aforementioned sherpa hoodie fully reversed to green nylon. An XXL shearling vest was similarly double-sided, and a few of the bodysuits had attached balaclavas that could be worn like hoods. Over Zoom, Ratabesi said they’re made of a super-plush, chenille-like fabric—not the usual micro-rib or stretchy jersey. They’re no doubt among the season’s most luxurious underpinnings; Ratabesi called them “made-in-Italy bodysuits.”
Nirvana 33th anniversary 1987 2020 signatures shirt, hoodie, tank top, sweater and long sleeve t-shirt
Ratabesi is rarely without a blazer, even in our work-from-home days, but fall’s hero jacket was a softer, roomier silk bomber. A glossy fuchsia version was dyed darker at the Nirvana 33th anniversary 1987 2020 signatures shirt but I will buy this shirt and I will love this edges to look worn-in, while another came in baby pink and flipped to army green. The mix of a comfy, cocooning silhouette, refined fabric, and luscious color summed up precisely how Ratabesi wants to look and feel: polished and new, but at ease. He’s too discreet to toot his own horn, but Martin Grant has lived the expat designer’s dream in Paris for nearly 30 years. That wasn’t even the beginning: Having started his first business back home in Melbourne at 16 years old and made the pages of Australian Vogue at 18, he turned up in the City of Light a decade later with a degree in sculpture, zero connections, and proceeded to get straight to work. The turning point came in the mid-’90s, when Naomi Campbell did a turn in a show at the designer’s tiny Rue des Rosiers boutique. It’s the stuff of fashion lore; one doesn’t hear such stories much anymore.