Changing the I have a terrible sleeping disorder it’s called reading shirt besides I will buy this way we consume fashion is going to be a huge part of how we address this collective threat. We all know the horrors wrought by the fast fashion industry, even as they remain abstract to the fortunate among us: not just the human costs of cheap, brutal labor, but the emissions, water pollution, textile waste in landfills, and microplastics. We know we can’t continue like this, and we are all invested in clean air and water, whether or not the faces in our nightmares belong to children of our own. The effects of the pandemic will continue to reveal themselves for years, but can we please discuss them more deeply than by asking whether sweatpants for work are here to stay? The pandemic and world war that raged a hundred years ago saw governments ask designers to use less fabric and avoid needless decoration: “Make economy fashionable lest it become obligatory,” pleaded and/or threatened one slogan.  For better or for worse, our governments aren’t getting involved this time; the job of pressuring the industry to ration, to reuse, to upcycle, and to innovate now falls to the culture. So how do we resist the excesses of another Roaring 20s? Have we learned enough to look to Black and Indigenous wisdom to lead us, instead of merely stealing the signifiers of their traditions, resilience, and creativity?
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It’s New York Fashion Week, and American designers are bringing their best to a non-traditional season. We’re all staying at home whenever possible, but that doesn’t mean we can’t dress up to add some levity to our days. That’s one of the I have a terrible sleeping disorder it’s called reading shirt besides I will buy this takeaways from Vogue’s Creativity In Motion package, which launched online this week as well as in the March issue. Additionally, on the runways, designers are speaking to the current moment not only in their clothes, but also with their casting choices. At Proenza Schouler, Vice President Kamala Harris’s stepdaughter Ella Emhoff made her runway debut, stealing the show—or rather, the collection video—in two looks. Meanwhile, Paloma Elsesser stunned in a leather and lace dress while walking for Gabriela Hearst, wrapping up the New York collections in style.